Last Updated on January 10, 2025 by Tina
The Camino de Santiago is a life-changing experience, and I chose the Camino Portuguese Coastal Sendo Litoral route for my pilgrimage as a solo female traveler. In this post, I’ll share my experience, personal motivations, preparations, stages and where I stayed, safety tips, encounters, and reflections from my unforgettable journey.
Also, feel free to check out my YouTube channel to get a glimpse of what the trail looks like!
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What is The Camino de Santiago
The Camino de Santiago, or Way of Saint James, is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes that lead to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, where the remains of Saint James are believed to be buried. People worldwide have been walking it for centuries for spiritual, religious, or personal reasons. Some do it as a religious pilgrimage, others as a spiritual journey, to find peace, or to challenge themselves physically and mentally. Many walk it to enjoy the scenic beauty, meet fellow travelers, and experience a deep sense of community.
Why I Chose the Camino Portuguese Over Other Routes
When deciding on which Camino route to take, I knew I wanted a coastal trail. The Camino del Norte and Camino Portuguese both offer beautiful coastal paths, but I chose the Portuguese route because I’ve heard so many wonderful things about Galicia. I met a Galician friend in Bali last year, and his stories about Galicia piqued my curiosity. The idea of walking along the coast and experiencing both Portugal and Spain was too appealing to resist.
My Motivation for Walking the Camino Portuguese
I first learned about the Camino de Santiago years ago when I saw some Filipino influencers posting with the hashtag inyourcaminos in their Instagram posts. I got curious about what it was about so I checked on Google. They were actually in Patagonia but what came out from my search was about Camino de Santiago. It sparked my interest, but I didn’t have the means back then. Earlier this year, I finally had the resources to travel to Europe after selling my property. I promised myself that once the sale went through, I would walk the Camino as a way of giving thanks for all my blessings.
I’ve always loved walking, and the idea of walking across two countries – from Portugal to Spain – was fascinating. I initially planned some warm-up walks in Singapore by doing the Round Island Route but never got around to it. Still, I felt ready to take on the Camino Portuguese.
How I Prepared for the Camino Portuguese as a Solo Female Pilgrim
Preparation is key for any pilgrimage, especially when you’re a solo female traveler. I joined Facebook groups for the Camino Portuguese, watched YouTube videos of female solo pilgrims, and asked my Galician friend for advice. These resources helped me immensely in understanding what to expect along the way.
I lived in Bali from March until the second week of June to escape the summer heat in the Philippines. My daily routine started with work around 8 or 9 AM, and I ensured to wrap up by 4 PM. Afterward, I’d prepare for my favorite part of the day—a sunset walk on the beach. These walks were not only relaxing but also part of my physical preparation for the Camino Portuguese.
I didn’t buy a special backpack; I used the one I already had for my travels. But I did invest in waterproof shoes and a jacket, as I knew Galicia’s weather could be unpredictable. Packing light was essential, but it was challenging since I was in Europe for 45 days. I had to balance my trekking gear with casual clothes for sightseeing after the Camino. On top of that, I also had to carry my laptop and an external monitor, because I have a remote job and while I was able to file for vacation leave for days 4 to 12 of my walk, I still had to work on days 2 and 3.
The Pilgrim Passport
Before starting your journey, ensure you have a pilgrim passport, or credencial. This essential item is your official record of the Camino de Santiago and grants you access to pilgrim-specific accommodations, such as albergues (hostels). Along the way, you can collect stamps (sellos) from churches, albergues, cafés, or other landmarks, creating a tangible keepsake of your journey. The pilgrim passport is also required to receive the Compostela, the official certificate of completion, upon reaching Santiago de Compostela. To qualify, you must walk at least 100 km or cycle at least 200 km, with at least two stamps per day during the final stretch of your journey.
The shell, often displayed as a badge on backpacks or found as waymarkers along the route, is the traditional symbol of the Camino. It represents the many paths converging in Santiago, just like the grooves of a shell meeting at a single point. The shell also honors St. James, whose tomb is in Santiago, and serves as a universal identifier for fellow pilgrims.
My Camino Portuguese Stages and Accommodations on the Camino
As a solo traveler, I booked all my accommodations in advance. In Portugal, I stayed in albergues, which were affordable and comfortable. On the Camino de Santiago, “albergues” specifically denote hostels catering to pilgrims, often offering shared dormitories, basic facilities, and communal meals.
I recommend pre-booking your stays, especially during the busy summer months, to avoid the stress of finding last-minute accommodations. If possible, do it one month in advance. I have pre-booked my accommodations in Portugal and had no problems, but for the Spain part, I did it just 3 to 4 days earlier, and all the albergues were fully booked. I had no choice but to stay in Airbnb rooms which were more expensive but ensured I had a safe and secure place to stay each night.
Day 1: Porto to Matosinhos
I started my walk on August 4, 2024. I left my hostel in Porto around 5 in the afternoon. Originally, I planned to start walking the next day, but I had a change of plans. Weeks before my trip, I read in Facebook groups that the walk from Porto to Vila do Conde is quite long—over 30 kilometers. Many people advised against doing such a long stretch on the first day, suggesting instead to break it up by stopping in Matosinhos and continuing the next day. Despite this advice, I was ready to take on the long walk since I had already booked my accommodations, and canceling would mean losing the refund.
However, the night before, I had a terrible time sleeping in my hostel. Our room wasn’t air-conditioned, and it was the middle of summer in Europe, so it was hot. To make things worse, someone in the room turned off the fan, and with the windows open, I was being bitten by mosquitoes all night. Between the heat and the bites, I barely got any rest. That sleepless night made me reconsider my plans. I couldn’t bear the thought of spending another night in that hostel. While lying in bed, I searched online and found a private room in Matosinhos for the next day. So, instead of sticking to my original plan, I started my walk a day early and headed to Matosinhos. It was a short and easy walk, offering stunning views of the Douro River that eventually gave way to the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Along the way, I was lucky enough to witness a breathtaking sunset, making the journey even more memorable.
Accommodation in Porto: Change The World Hostels – Porto – Santa Catarina
- I paid 21 euros a night for a bed in a 6-bed dormitory room and 2 euros per night city tax.
- It is centrally located; the toilet and bathroom are inside the room, and it has a shared kitchen.
- The room is not airconditioned so it may be too hot if staying on the summer.
Accommodation in Matosinhos: São Francisco
- I paid 69 euros for a private room.
- The room was a bit small for the price, but it was clean and I had a comfortable stay.
Day 2: Matosinhos to Vila do Conde
I walked 26.35 kilometers from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde on my second day, with a moving time of 6 hours and 20 minutes. My walk started at 10 AM, which was quite late for a Camino day because I had to work first. I had to wake up extra early to be able to squeeze in at least 5 hours of work, following Philippine time. It was a challenge balancing work and walking, but I made it happen.
The majority of the walk was on a scenic boardwalk. It was an easy walk due to the flat terrain. During my pilgrimage, I discovered I had plantar fasciitis. However, I noticed that the first 2 hours of the walk were pain-free. When the discomfort started, I took breaks to massage my feet.
Accommodation in Vila do Conde: HI Vila do Conde – Pousada de Juventude
- I paid 19 euros for a bunk bed in a female dormitory.
- Nice room, but has limited sockets. There were no sockets beside the bed.
- Comes with free breakfast with a lot of choices like fruits, breads, juice, milk, coffee, cheese etc.
Day 3: Vila do Conde to Esposende
This was by far the most challenging day for me, largely due to my plantar fasciitis. I had to wake up early again to work before walking. It was a grueling 26.43 kilometers walk from Vila do Conde to Esposende. I started my walk at 9 AM and noticed more pilgrims along the trail compared to previous days, which gave me a small sense of camaraderie.
The route itself was incredibly scenic, but as the hours wore on, the pain in my feet became unbearable. Two hours before reaching my accommodation, I found myself stopping every 500 meters just to massage my feet, hoping to ease the discomfort. Adding to the pressure, I had to reach my accommodation before 8 PM, as the reception would be closed after that.
When I finally arrived, completely spent, I fell asleep almost immediately—skipping dinner and even a shower. It was such a shame because the accommodation was beautiful and located right by the sea, but exhaustion took over everything else.
Accommodation in Esposende: Sea Soul Esposende
- I paid 28 euros for a bed in a 10-bed mixed dormitory room.
- It was very comfortable, with a well-equipped kitchen and a pool.
Day 4: Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Another long walk at 27.48 kilometers from Esposende to Viana do Castelo. However, I didn’t struggle as much as the previous day. It was probably because I was already getting used to the long walks, or my bag became lighter.
Accommodation in Viana do Castelo: Albergue de Santa Luzia
- I paid 22 euros for an 8-bed mixed dormitory room
- The albergue was beautifully situated atop a hill, offering stunning views that made the climb worth the effort—despite the many tiring stairs you needed to ascend to get there. However, it’s important to have dinner beforehand or bring food with you, as there are no nearby restaurants.
- The rooms were clean, comfortable, and spacious, providing a pleasant place to rest after a long day. For added convenience, the albergue had two coin-operated washing machines, perfect if you need to do laundry. It also featured a well-equipped kitchen, making it easy to prepare your meals if needed.
Day 5: Viana do Castelo to Moledo
The day was supposed to involve another long walk, but a slight change in plans for the following day allowed me to feel more relaxed. I knew I could stop whenever I found a place to stay for the night. The walk was scenic once again, with a memorable stretch where I had to descend to the beach because the boardwalk was buried under dunes.
What I didn’t anticipate was a festival taking place in Vila Praia de Âncora. Every accommodation there was fully booked. Panic started to set in as the thought of walking another 2–3 hours to find a place to stay loomed over me.
Then I remembered a German pilgrim I’d met the day before, who mentioned booking their accommodation in Viana do Castelo through Airbnb. Although I’m not a big fan of the app, I decided to give it a try since Booking.com wasn’t showing any options nearby. To my relief, I found a place in the next town, Moledo. It was still a 45-minute walk, but that was far better than a 2-hour trek to Caminha! I walked 24.75 kilometers from Viana do Castelo to Moledo.
Accommodation in Moledo: Joana’s place booked in Airbnb
- I paid 30 euros for a shared room
- I had a comfortable stay and it was a minute walk to the beach
Day 6: Moledo to A Guarda
Day 6 was a very short walk compared to the previous days. I started my walk almost 11 AM. I got to A Guarda in Spain from Caminha in Portugal by crossing the Minho River by boat taxi. It was a very short ride, just 5 minutes and costs 6 euros. I booked the boat taxi here: https://xacobeotransfer.com/de/home_de/
In A Guarda, I reunited with a friend I had planned to spend the weekend with. After picking me up on his motorbike, he took me to Monte de Santa Tecla, where we enjoyed the breathtaking views. That evening, we had a barbecue at his friend’s house, which turned out to be a cozy and memorable gathering.
I took a two-day break from walking, during which my friend and his friend showed me around Tui and some charming towns across the border in Portugal. One highlight of the weekend was getting to try authentic paella, which they cooked themselves—it was delicious.
During my break, I stayed at his friend’s house in Tui.
You might be interested: Cooking Paella Over an Open Fire with my Spanish Friends
Day 7: Sabaris to Vigo
I skipped the stretch from A Guarda to Sabarís and began my walk from Sabarís to Vigo instead. This turned out to be one of my favorite stages of the journey. The beaches along the way were incredibly quiet and serene, making the walk peaceful and enjoyable.
Although I’ve heard that Oia and Baiona are beautiful, they were part of the section I skipped. Despite covering 26.45 kilometers that day, the walk didn’t feel too tiring—likely because my bag was much lighter after leaving some of my belongings with my friend.
Accommodation in Sabaris: Albergue playa de sabaris
- I paid 20 euros for a bed in a 10-bed mixed dormitory room.
- It was directly on the camino and had a fully equipped kitchen. I had a comfortable stay here.
Accommodation in Vigo: Room in Vigo booked in Airbnb
- I paid 42 euros for a private room with a shared bathroom.
- It was centrally located, just a few minutes walk to Vialia shopping mall and the bus and train stations.
Day 8: Vigo to Redondela
This was a short stretch at 17.63 kilometers. There were a lot of uphill walks, and I had to stop for a moment because it rained. I had a raincoat with me but I felt lazy walking in the rain and I knew I had a lot of time so I really didn’t have to rush. And even though it was quite exhausting walking uphill, the views compensated for it. The views were amazing and the photos and videos didn’t do justice to it.
Along the Camino, I met a Filipino couple who were already Canadian citizens walking too. They are in their mid-60s. I walked with them until we reached Redondela.
Accommodation in Redondela: Lar de Carmen
- I paid 50 euros for a private room with a shared bathroom
- It was a cozy place. The hosts were very nice. But this was about a 2 km walk from the coastal route. All the albergues along the coastal route were fully booked so I had no choice but to book here.
Day 9: Redondela to Pontevedra
This walk wasn’t very tiring at 26.21 kilometers. About halfway through, I met an Albanian girl who was also walking alone. She was worried about finding accommodation in Pontevedra since she hadn’t booked anything in advance and was planning to try a first-come, first-served albergue. I reassured her by offering to share my private Airbnb room if she couldn’t find a place to stay.
We walked the rest of the way to Pontevedra together, and we both realized how much easier walking felt when you’re deep in conversation with someone else.
That evening, I went out to have dinner and explore a bit of the town center. The view from the bridge was stunning—it quickly became one of my favorite parts of the evening.
Accommodation in Pontevedra: Elena’s place booked in Airbnb
- I paid 85 euros for a private room with own bathroom
- Close to the camino but about 2 km away from the center
- Spacious room, very comfortable and has kitchen and terrace
Day 10: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
The walk was relatively easy, covering just 21 kilometers. However, the midday heat forced me to make a few stops to cool down.
I arrived in Caldas de Reis earlier than usual but was anxious because I hadn’t booked a place to stay. Everything listed on Booking.com was fully booked. After trying three albergues and finding them all full, I met a French pilgrim who was in the same predicament. He mentioned that if he couldn’t find a place, he’d likely sleep on the ground somewhere.
I decided to check another albergue that was just a 4-minute walk from where we were, one that wasn’t listed on Booking.com. To my relief, the owner told me they had one last bed available. Feeling incredibly lucky, I messaged the Albanian girl I’d met the day before to ask where she had stopped for the night. She replied that she’d wanted to stay in Caldas de Reis but, like me, found everything full. Instead, she had continued walking to the next town with an albergue.
Later, while waiting for my laundry, a man waved at me—it was the French pilgrim. As it turned out, he had been lucky too. When he went to the same albergue, the Italians who had reserved beds didn’t show up, so he was given one of their spaces.
Accommodation in Caldas de Reis: Albergue Albor
- I don’t remember how much I paid, I think it was 22 euros for a bed in a female dorm
- Comes with free breakfast, has a fully equipped kitchen, and there are coin-operated washing machines
- Centrally located, comfortable and the owner was really nice
Day 11: Caldas de Reis to Os Munios
It was the second-to-last day of walking, and my original plan was to stay in Padrón, which would have made for a much more relaxed walk. Instead, I decided to push on an extra few kilometers—about an additional hour of walking—to make the final day shorter and easier. I stopped in Os Munios, the town in between Iria Flavia and A Escravitude. For this day I walked 25 kilometers.
In Padrón, I ran into a Slovakian couple I had met earlier at a café in Portugal. We ended up soaking our tired feet in a lavadero (an old washing place). The water was icy cold and felt amazing after walking over 20 kilometers, especially since the midday heat had been intense.
Later, two Spanish ladies from Madrid joined us, and I walked with them until we reached the intersection where I had to head toward my accommodation. It was a memorable day of connection and preparation for the final stretch of the journey.
Accommodation in Os Munios: A Casa da Meixida
- I paid 82 euros for a private room
- Lovely stone house, clean and very comfortable
- Came with a free breakfast of fruits, cheese, bread, jamon, etc
Day 12: Os Muinios to Santiago de Compostela
The last day of the walk was a relatively easy one. I covered 21.46 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela in about 5 hours and 20 minutes. Along the way, I met a lovely girl (I can’t recall her nationality), and we had such a great conversation that I didn’t feel tired at all. However, she decided to stop in Teo, about 5 kilometers from Santiago, as she wanted her final day to be a short one.
As I got closer to the cathedral, the streets became increasingly crowded, filled with both pilgrims and tourists. When I finally reached the cathedral, I was overwhelmed with joy and gratitude, thankful for completing the journey safely and without any major issues.
After taking a moment to rest and soak it all in, I headed to the Pilgrim Reception Office to claim my credential—a perfect way to end this incredible journey.
Accommodation in Santiago de Compostela: Libredón Rooms
- I paid 75 euros for a private room, it was an attic room (I booked it in Airbnb but they have a listing in Booking.com too)
- It was a tiny room but was clean and the bed was comfortable
- Very good location, just 100 meters away from the cathedral
Safety Concerns and Precautions as a Solo Female Traveler
Walking the Camino Portuguese as a solo female traveler, I never felt unsafe. While my imagination occasionally ran wild (thanks to my true crime documentary habit!), I didn’t encounter any real danger. I always finished my walks before nightfall to ensure my safety and pre-booked my accommodations.
The Camino community was a huge source of comfort and reassurance. From locals to fellow pilgrims, everyone was welcoming and supportive. Locals often greeted me with cheerful “Bom Caminho” or “Buen Camino,” and I had some truly heartwarming encounters with other travelers from all over the world.
That said, I did have some amusing moments of irrational worry—like when I was walking alone through a forest and thought, “What if a scary animal appears?” or “What if a psycho suddenly comes out of nowhere?” I mentioned this to my friend during my two-day break, and he assured me there were no dangerous animals along the way. He also emphasized that the Camino is safe, though it’s always wise to stay vigilant and, if possible, walk with people ahead or behind me on the trail.
For anyone considering this journey, my advice is to trust in the Camino’s safety but take simple precautions to give yourself peace of mind and to always trust your gut.
Memorable Encounters with Fellow Pilgrims
The Camino Portuguese offers a strong sense of community, and I met people from all over the world. One memorable encounter was with an Italian couple who greeted me as “Hi, Philippines” when they recognized me on the trail. I also met a lovely Filipino-Canadian couple who were in their mid sixties but had the energy of people half their age. Walking alongside them in Redondela was one of the most relaxed days of my journey.
One thing I will never forget is the Korean lady I met while taking a break in Igrexa de Santa Maria de Alba. There was a sign in the resting area that says “Free Hugs” and so she came to hug me and that felt good. She could speak very little English but she told me she was so happy to see a fellow Asian on the trail. I told her I felt the same because I rarely saw Asians during my walk. I am also happy to share that I never experienced racism while doing the camino.
Physical and Mental Challenges on the Camino
Most people I met during the Camino experienced having blisters. Luckily I never got one but what made my walk difficult was dealing with plantar fasciitis. By the last two hours of my walk on the third day, the pain in my heel was almost unbearable. It was so painful that I had to stop every 500 meters.
But despite the physical struggles, I stayed motivated by reminding myself that the Camino isn’t a race – I would get to Santiago at my own pace.
Mentally, walking for hours can be challenging, but quitting never crossed my mind because whenever I set myself into doing something, I make sure I finish it. I found comfort in the rhythm of the walk and the beautiful scenery around me.
Cultural and Scenic Highlights of the Camino Portuguese
The Camino Portuguese offers stunning landscapes and rich cultural experiences. Some of my favorite stretches of the walk were from Sabaris to Playa de Samil in Vigo, where the beaches were quiet and serene. I also loved the climb from Vigo to Redondela, where I was rewarded with breathtaking views of the sea, the bridge, and the surrounding countryside.
One of the highlights of my trip was attending a concert by Serafín Zubiri in Caldas de Reis. He is a blind singer and songwriter who recorded the Spanish soundtrack for Disney’s Beauty and the Beast. It gave me a deeper appreciation for the local culture, and I was lucky enough to witness how the locals celebrate life and music during the summer festivals.
Practical Tips for Solo Female Travelers on the Camino Portuguese
- Pack light: Two trekking outfits, a pair of sleepwear, and a few casual pieces for post-Camino sightseeing are enough. Quick-drying clothes will make laundry easier along the way. You can do the laundry in the albergues. No need to bring a sleeping bag or sleeping bag liner if you are staying in private albergues because blankets are provided. Bring a lightweight towel if you don’t want to pay extra because some private albergues do not provide towel.
- Essential apps: I highly recommend the Camino Ninja app for route planning and finding accommodations. It’s incredibly helpful, especially when waymarking becomes unclear.
- Money management: Most restaurants in Portugal prefer cash, so always have some on hand. I also carried a power bank to ensure my phone didn’t die while I navigated the trails.
- You don’t need to bring a walking stick if it’s not something you’re accustomed to using—it’s all about what feels most comfortable for you.
- As for the food, I never had a problem looking for a place to eat along the trail. A girl I met along the trail asked me how I knew what to order because in Spain, most restaurants have their menu in Spanish. I told her I have a Spanish friend and he told me the foods to try. Also, you can always use Google Translate. In Portugal, most Portuguese especially the younger ones can speak fluent English so you won’t have a problem ordering food.
- The restaurants have toilets so if you need to pee, it is free to use for customers.
- As for water, I brought a plastic water bottle and I just refilled it in the morning because the tap water in Portugal is potable.
The Spiritual Experience of Reaching Santiago de Compostela
Reaching Santiago de Compostela was one of the most emotional moments of my life. After 12 days of walking, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude and fulfillment. The journey tested me physically and mentally and deepened my faith and connection with the world around me.
Final Thoughts: Empowerment Through the Camino Portuguese
Walking the Camino Portuguese as a solo female traveler was one of the most empowering experiences of my life. The journey challenged me in ways I didn’t expect, but it also showed me just how strong and capable I am. For anyone considering this route, especially women traveling alone, I highly recommend it. You’ll not only discover beautiful landscapes and cultures but also a stronger, more confident version of yourself.
I hope this post inspired you to walk the Camino Portuguese. If you have any questions, feel free to write them down in the comments section. Subscribe to my blog if you don’t want to miss any of my posts. And please like my Facebook page I Went Anyways and like my Instagram accounts @iwentanyways and @tnadeperalta for updates.
